ANGKOR WAT!! Hermazing!

A small section of the central part of Angkor Wat

I had the best time at Angkor Wat spending three days exploring the huge, grand ruins, two of these days were, of course, on bicycle which was by far the best way to view Angkor and the surrounding temples. An absolute highlight of my trip in Asia! On the first day we went and saw the big two, Angkor Wat and Angkor Thom, and I was so incredibly in awe of the place. So old! So grand! Angkor Wat seemed even more spectacular and incredible and awesome on the last day when I popped by to have a second peek and to sadly say goodbye to Angkor. I would love to go again! I was very sad to say goodbye to Angkor.

Big faces at Bayon

One of the many examples of sculpture, and especially of the female form. In so many cases each figure was different to the next and where there were hundreds in a row it was immensely impressive! As I found everything at Angkor!

Hugging a huge tree in my possibly fave, Ta Prohm. The jungles reclaimed the temples here and it was great to explore and clamber over ruins and gaze in awe at the monstrous trees!

Saigon and Cu Chi

The last Vietnamese stop for Tom. I really like Saigon as a city: it's big and busy and clean and there's lots of historical spots to see and great pho eating to be done. The traffic is the usual chaos but using my old trick of keeping locals traffic side ensures a safe crossing. The wealth there was unbelievable: ridiculously plush hotels and lavish designer stores aplenty which was all quite unexpected.

Veggie pho: broth, fresh noodles, mushrooms, egg, tofu, carrots, tapioca, bean sprouts, cabbage, mint, chilis... Bill Clinton ate here in 2000.

We did the usual touristy route and went to the Reunification Palace which had great interior design: very geometric light fittings and a minimalist lounge. I'm not sure that was what I was supposed to appreciate here! The basement was kept in a pretty authentic condition as it was in the time of war with maps and telephone rooms in tiny rooms down clinical corridors.

Very stylish interior!

Uncle Ho

We went to the War Remnants Museum which was an upsetting, shocking, depressing reflection of war and humanity. Most of the space is taken up with photography exhibitions taken by various, well-known war photographers documenting the Vietnam War capturing moments and expressions in a thought-provoking yet starkly factual way. I found the whole exhibition hard work for my sensitive soul but it was an extremely worthwhile, informative and emotional visit.

We took a day trip to the Viet Cong Cu Chi Tunnels which was pretty touristy yet eye-opening. We got to crawl through a small safe section of the tunnels (which span 75 miles in total), which have been widened and heightened for the fat Western tourists, to give an impression of what it would be like: hot, sweaty, small, cramped, and very dark. One of the tour guides leading another group was actually in the Viet Cong and had bullet scars on his shoulder which he displayed to his captivated audience. He had a brilliant attitude to life and explained his own life experiences in the Viet Cong and in the tunnels with humour and pride.

Crawling through the Cu Chi Tunnels

Strike a Pose in HoiAn

We headed still further south to the touristy tailoring town of HoiAn. We both made quick steps towards the tailors, of which there are an overwhelming number, and had a fun time getting measured up for a few frocks (me) and a three piece (Tom, obvs). We picked out the fabrics and styles we liked and the tailors created them with speed and ease. We returned for a few alterations over the course of the four or so days that we were there which all seemed rather glamorous.

At the tailors for a second fitting: Tom striking a pose in two of his three pieces

We took a day trip to My Son which is apparently the Vietnamese version of Angkor. Hmm, optimistic! The countryside ride there though was of course beautiful and super chilled with rice paddies dotting the landscape.

Ruined Hindu temples at My Son...not so Angkor

Views over to the Old Town

The town itself was easily navigable on foot and by bicycle and it was a lovely relief to find that no motorised vehicles were allowed within the Old Town which took the edge off strolling along the quaint roads. On our last day we cycled over the bridge to view the pretty Old Town whilst dining alongside the river. And at Chips and Fish Tom had possibly the best fish and chips of his life. I am a big Brits fish n chips n mushy peas fan but these "chips and fish" were perfection! The batter was mixed up with herbs to coat the super fresh fish chunks and the condiment was a super divine lime juice, salt and pepper combo (super simple and super delish). This fresh dip may very well overtake my mayonnaise condiment obsession! (Although out here mayo is a rarity which my arteries are probs most grateful for!)

Chips and Fish and Fresh Lime Dip

The Humid City of Hue

Oh my life! So incredibly humid in Hue! Sweatnation! We did the touristy thing around the Imperial City of Hue for a morn and hotfooted it out of there asap. Before hastily departing we (deservedly) treated ourselves after our sleeper bus from HaNoi trundled into Hue six hours later than scheduled. We grabbed a dip in our guest house pool, Tom wolfed down an interesting eight course Vietnamese menu (of which I could have barely any due to my new veggie status) and we sampled a sweet streetstall delicacy of Chè: a sweet gloppy dessert in a glass with some sugary rice, purple jelly cubes, banana, a few kidney beans and tapioca thrown in. It was an odd combo of flavours and as I hate to see food go to waste I dutifully finished it off. Interesting but I won't try it again!

Big urns in the Imperial City

An oldy building in the Imperial City

Pots of bananas and beans and jelly and other syrupy bits and bobs that make up a che glass.

Sculpture and Stuff

Phew...so after a few wordy entries here are some visuals of the sculpture and painted murals that I ogled during my last few weeks in India...

Khajuraho: saris and temples

Khajuraho: ancient rudies. The temples are famed for their erotic sculpture which decorates the outside of many a temple

Khajuraho: See here: the woman on the left is modestly bathing, then a couple across and you can make out a woman picking a thorn out of her foot with some assistance, and then on the far right a woman picks up a child. Incredible detail Incredible India!

Ajanta Caves: a mural depicting Padmapani of course!

Ellora caves: super old rock-cut temples

Ellora caves: goddess with peacock and kid learning in the corner

Taj Mahal Wonder

...and it really was a Wonder. Despite the crowds the Taj Mahal exuded peace and calm and serenity. It gave off a fairy-tale like magic as it loomed above big and bold, marble gleaming. A monument built on great romance conflicting with supreme egotism, but hey, I fell in love with the precious stone inlay work on marble. The mausoleum was a bit manic with crowds pushing forward to see the tombs trying to sneak in a photo and subsequently being whistled at by the guards - not at all peaceful but totally India! Possibly not worth my 750 Rupees but one's got to break the daily budget from time to time! Strict rules of no water, no food, no pens, no books (although I managed to smuggle the latter through despite my bag being searched) I think with the aim of stopping any loitering. The need for food and a nap lured us back onto the streets of Agra after 3 hours of Taj Mahal, this was after an epic all nighter bus journey from Pushkar, quick shower and brekkie, then straight to The Wonder. Taj. Done.

The Blue City

The Blue City originally flagging up the high-caste Brahmin residing in those walls but that blue hue apparently keeps bugs at bay too, very handy.

The Meherangarh Fort dominates the scene and takes a couple of hours to digest the accompanying audio guide. Well worth the Rupes. The clever double-whammy of the right angled fort entrance to stop those pesky elephants charging and seizing control is then followed by the hand prints of Maharaja Man Singh's widows who committed sati (widows sacrificing their lives on their husband's funeral pyre),including a few maids and mistresses. Some of the hand prints are so tiny, much smaller than my bean hands.

Jaisalmer

Onwards to Jaisalmer bordering the Thar desert. After a long and bumpy overnight bus ride, with accompanying horns with multiple tunes blaring throughout the night, we arrive in Jaisalmer to then be separated and surrounded by rickshaw drivers yelling "10 Rupees" and guest house hustlers bidding for our custom. Stressful times!  Jaisalmer Fort is made of yellow Jurassic sandstone and is still inhabited by two thousand people. The streets are quaint and windy and the facades beautifully intricate. It was nice to just have a wander and admire the old old buildings still full of life and living.

The sunset was glorious and gave the sandstone fort a warm, golden hue and then out in all directions was the flat, arid, sparse landscape. Pretty much incredible.

Udaipur

Young Indian honeymooners galore in Udaipur which was sweet to see as they shyly skipped around the City Palace. Relentless wedding processions taking over the streets with colourfully adorned horses, glum grooms, energetic dancing to brass bands (bizarre) and lots of drums, kids wielding hefty lights to contain and guide the processions, Rupee notes flung about, and finished off with a toxic generator lagging behind. 

The City Palace itself is a labyrinth of palace upon palace as successive rulers added their own mahal (palace) over a lengthy 300 years. Each one differs in style, some more ornate, gaudy, clinical, colourful, and extravagant than others.

And great if hazy sunset views as we wander past a Tibetan market, an elephant, a lake, to some temple with stunning and high views over Lake Pichola and the City Palace.